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The Hawaiian Isles

Maui
Maui is magic, an island voted the "World's Best" year after year, a place that fulfills a traveler's dream of paradise with its crystal waters, golden beaches, tropical breezes and swaying palms. Maui's beauty and diversity are wondrous. From the ethereal crater of Haleakala, to the alpine meadows and ranches of upcountry, to the countless fern-choked gorges and waterfalls along the road to heavenly Hana, to the historic and delightful shopping town of Lahaina and the charm of the smaller beach towns, to the 42 miles of beaches and the bays where Humpback whales spend the warm winter--Maui's wonders never cease. As they say, "Maui no ka oi," which means "Maui is the best."

Viv's Picks: Best resorts on Maui

+ Four Seasons
+ Grand Wailea
+ Maui Prince
+ Sheraton Maui

Viv's List: Best things to do on Maui

You are NOT to try to do all of these…you can’t and still get in enough relaxation time…and you want to save some for your return trip anyway!
OK, here goes, in no particular order…
1. Have sweet Portuguese bread French toast with coconut syrup at the crusty old Pioneer Inn. Marvel at the giant Banyan across the street. Visit one of the old Missionary homes or the big Buddha at Jodo Mission.
2. Think about taking a day trip over to Lanai to explore and snorkel. There is an inexpensive place for lunch at the B&B on the town square in Lanai City
3. The Road to Hana: Start early. Buy a styrofoam cooler at Safeway and fill it with deli food and beers and water. Stop along the way but don’t linger too long. See Waianapanapa Park, then Seven Heavenly Pools and if you can find it (you’ll have to ask) Charles Lindbergh’s grave and lovely Hamoa Beach. Decide if you want to do the hike.
4. For the most amazing hike: ask me for directions
5. Drive north from Lahaina past the Kaanapali area, maybe stop at Flemmings Beach (Steve and I were married there, but it use to be much bigger, I think the Ritz Carlton stole a big chunk of it). Keep going past the famous surfer beaches and look for the blowhole. If you spot it, park and walk down to investigate. If you keep going you come to a funky little Hawaiian country town I forget the name of.
6. On your way to Wailea you’ll see Maalaea Bay. There’s a new aquarium they’ve made a big deal about. There was also near the Marina a fish market where you can get a fish to barbecue at one of the public beach parks, or some of that poke, that ceviche-like marinated fish salad I like. All along that road is good snorkeling, but be sure you lock everything in the trunk if you park.
7. Go past Makena to Little Makena and all the way to La Perouse Bay. The snorkeling is suppose to be really good if the water is calm (it was wild and beautiful when we were there).
8. Visit Tedeschi winery, not for the weird pineapple wine but for the old plantation ambiance.
9. Go up to the top of Haleakala crater, for sunrise or sunset if you can, but anytime is good. Don’t wear out your brakes coming down.
10. Stop at the old cowboy town Makawao, a good place to eat.
11. Find vintage Aloha shirts in Wailuku where there are many antique shops. Paia is another town with interesting shops and galleries.
12. On Friday night go wander around Lahaina for “Art Night” and ask everybody you talk to what Halloween in Lahaina is like. Ask locals where to eat…the tourist restaurants can be so pricey and disappointing.
13. Have Sunday brunch at the Renaissance Wailea, or maybe the luau.
14. Go visit the Maui Prince, maybe have breakfast there one morning or sushi. If you decide to do the Molokini snorkel trip go with their boat…it leaves earliest and gets there before all the other boats do.
15. Walk along the beach walk 1.5 miles to see the grandiose hotels along that gorgeous series of crescent moon beaches. See the Butano sculptures at the Grand Wailea, and the gorgeous mosaic tile pool. See the Four Seasons next door and snorkel on their beach…See the Kea Lani at the end.
16. Snorkel at Ulua beach at the Outrigger Wailea … it is suppose to be great. Another good snorkeling spot is the Black Rock at the Sheraton in Kaanapali.
17. Go kayaking. We haven’t done it on Maui, but my in-laws said it was the best day of their vacation. They went on a guided snorkeling kayak adventure with a company called Aeili, I think toward Perouse Bay. They said it was more fun than the Molokini trip.
18. Eat mangoes and papayas every day.
19. Buy good wine at Safeway, hide your wine glasses from the maid and enjoy the wine and sunsets from your lanai almost every evening.
20. Remember to come home.
21. Buy a piece of jewelry at one of the shops in Lahaina.

Other Lists
Restaurants
Places to hear music
Hikes
Beaches

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Oahu
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Viv's Picks: Oahu resorts
+

Viv's List: Best things to do on Oahu

1. Visit the Bishop Museum. The best collection of Hawaiian and Polynesian artifacts in the world. A wonderful museum.
2. Visit the Iolani Palace, where Hawaii’s last two monarchs lived and ruled. Best to have a docent-lead tour. For a truly unique and special glimpse into a tragic episode in the history of Hawaii and the events that lead to statehood.
3. Rent a car and spend a day exploring North Shore. See famous Waimea Bay, home of 20 foot waves and surfing competitions. Stop at Haleiwa and check out the quaint little shops. Have lunch or afternoon drinks and pupus at Jameson’s on the Beach.
4. Visit Waimea Falls Park and hike the trails, swim under the waterfall, or rent kayaks for a leisurely paddle downriver to the beach.
5. Visit Aloha Tower for lunch, or sunset drinks and shopping.
6. Visit Pearl Harbor. Go out to the Arizona Memorial that was built above the sunken battleship. Afterwards, don’t miss the next door submarine museum. It is full of very poignant remembrances and artifacts from American submariners who fought in World War II.
7. Snorkel at famous Hanauma Bay.
8. Visit Senator Fong’s Plantation and Gardens, 725 acres of rare and exotic flora in a tropical rainforest.
9. Eat at as many of the fine dining restaurants around the city as possible.
10. Have drinks at Dukes.
11. Enjoy the once-a-month event, Brunch at Kapiolani Park. Eat macadamia nut French toast and poha berry bread pudding while listening to the 166-year-old Royal Hawaiian Band playing from the Victorian bandstand under the swaying palm trees.
12. Walk down Kalakaua Avenue and linger at Kuhio Beach Park to watch a glorious Waikiki sunset. Once a month, enjoy the “Sunset on the Beach Festival” with live bands, ethnic foods and movies on a giant screen against the backdrop of Diamond Head.
13. Have a luxurious spa treatment at Hilton Hawaiian Village’s Mandara Spa.
14. Have a classic mai tai at Moana Surfrider’s Banyan Court, in the shade of the famous Banyan tree.
15. Find Dukie Kuahulu, the king of the beach boys and surf instructor to tourists for over 50 years, and take a lesson, catch a wave.
16. Spend a day shopping on Kalakaua Avenue, one of America’s most upscale and appealing shopping streets.
17. Swim with the dolphins at the Kahala Mandarin Oriental.
18. Go horseback riding at Kualoa Ranch.
19. Take a hike at Makapuu on the southeast coast of the island. The trail is easy, the sights gorgeous, and the summit overlooks a long beautiful stretch of coastline.
20. See a show at the historic Hawaii Theater that dates from the 20’s and was recently restored.
21. Go hear jazz at Havana Cabana.
22. Visit Queen Emma’s Summer Palace.

Other Lists

Great hikes
Hidden Beaches
Waterfalls
Petroglyphs

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Hawaii, The Big Island
The Big Island is an awesome place, an island with the most diverse geography, most dramatic landscapes, most spectacular natural wonders. The first time visitor will be dazzled by a visual feast: a million stars in the clear night sky atop the summit of Mauna Kea; a river of red hot lava flowing into the sea; a cool green forest of giant ferns; an underwater explosion of colorful coral and tropical fish; the hidden black sand beach you find at the end of a long hike over jagged black volcanic rock.

It is no surprise that the Big Island receives more return visitors than any of the other islands. On a second, or third, or fourth visit to the Big Island, one will often want to focus on individual pursuits such as sport, water activities, spas and relaxation, history or astronomy. The Big Island offers so much, and every visit--whether a first or a twenty-first is sure to be rewarding.

Viv's Picks: Best Big Island resorts

+ Mauna Kea Beach Hotel
+ Kona Village Resort
+ Hilton Waikoloa
+ The Orchid at Mauna Lani Viv's List: Best things to do on the Big Island

1. Visit the Place of Refuge to learn about the first Hawaiians and Kapu. Go down from the parking lot to the left and picnic at the beach park there. Follow the trail to the lava tube cave and go thru it to the cliff.
2. Follow the King’s Trail near the Waikoloa shopping center to see the petroglyphs. See if you can tell ancient etchings from graffiti.
3. Visit Waimea, the upcountry town and the Parker Ranch museum. Ask about horseback riding. Have lunch or dinner at Koa House Grill.
4. Visit the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel around sunset and see the manta rays.
5. Take a snorkeling cruise or in winter a dolphin and whale watching cruise. Call Dream Cruises at 326-6000.
6. Visit Kealakekua Bay for the best snorkeling on the island. Many of the snorkeling boats go there, but you can also drive there. You may want to rent kayaks…it is a lovely protected bay full of fish.
7. Visit the Hulilee Palace in Kona and take the little guided tour…you will see portraits of all the Hawaiian royals and hear some fascinating stories.
8. Leave early one morning for a fantastic day at Volcanos National Park. Not to be missed: the visitors center, Thurston Lava Tube and fern forest, Devastation trail, the Crater Rim drive (50 miles, takes 3 hrs). Talk to the park rangers about the possibility of seeing Kilauea lava flow. Be sure to drive to the end of Chain of Craters Road to the sea. Then have a fabulous dinner at Kilauea Lodge in Volcano Village. Call ahead 967-7366 for reservations.
9. This can possibly be done on the same day as Volcanoes, or maybe you will be up for a return to Hilo area…it is about 30 miles north of Hilo, the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens. It is usually raining there, but it is the most fantastic tropical rain forest along the ocean you can imagine. Plan to spend at least 2 hours there. You can also visit Akaka Falls near there…fantastic waterfalls. Stop in the little town of Honomu for lunch or snack.
10. If you have a 4-wheel drive, drive up to Mauna Kea to the VIS at 9300 ft. They offer free star gazing through powerful telescopes—when conditions are right this is the best star viewing in the world. Call the VIS for weather conditions, program info and directions at 808-961-2180. If you are driving be careful to not miss the turnoff which is not well marked, or you will end up in Hilo. Go to the summit in time for sunset, often a remarkable show, and to see the observatories. Dress warm and hike the summit trail, a short and thrilling trail from where you stand on the top of Mauna Kea, the highest mountain in the world if measured from its base on the ocean floor. If you do not have the vehicle needed, book a tour with Hawaii Forest and Trail or another operator to take you up.
11. Call Hawaii Forest and Trail, 808-322-8881 and tell them I recommended you. Make a reservation to do the spectacular Pohulu Valley hike…you will not regret it! They will pick you up at the Bar and Grill at the Kings Shops shopping center near the Hilton. (That is a good place to eat and drink too)
12. Drive out to Kawaihai harbor. Maybe stop at the heiau you see on the way. Have a wonderful moderate price dinner at Café Pesto .
13. Swim (or go for the fantastic lunch buffet) and snorkel at the beach at Mauna Kea Beach hotel It has to be one of the loveliest beaches in the world. There is a small but interesting fringing reef a short swim out. Other great beaches: Hapuna Beach, Old Airport Rd Beach Park, 69 Beach (you’ll have to ask locals where it is).
14. For a taste of “old Hawaii” go visit the Kona Village Resort. Their Friday luau is famous, costs $70…go early so you can wander around and see the beautiful ancient grounds.
15. Visit the Hilton Waikoloa. Ride the boats along their lagoons to see the resort (watch for exotic tropical birds), or walk along the open walkways and see all the Asian art on display. Find the great marble statues of your Chinese birth year animals, read your character attributes and take photos. Find the giant Buddha.
16. Visit the farmers market in Kona and buy fresh fruit and souvenirs…maybe send home a beautiful orchid plant.
17. Take a helicopter island tour with Blue Hawaiian. A breathtaking experience. You can purchase a video at the end of your flight.
18. My personal favorite: a horseback ride along the Waipio Ridge, above the lush historic Waipio Valley. Call Waipio Ridge Stables at 775-1007 and mention my name. Go early to shop in the meeting place, the charming town of Honokaa. A fantastic experience on good horses with friendly local wranglers, in a breathtakingly beautiful place.

Restaurant Recommendation

Roussel’s Waikoloa Village
(very highly rated—I haven’t tried it yet)
Café Pesto at Kawaihae- about 30 minutes from Waikoloa, really good, moderate price
Koa House Grill in Waimea – great steaks and burgers, locals place
Eidelweiss in Waimea – highly recommended
Kiluaea Lodge in Volcano Village – if you visit Volcanoes Park, plan to have dinner here.
For the most wonderful lunch buffet: the Terrace Grill at the Mauna Kea, overlooking one of the world’s best beaches (go to the beach after lunch).
For the best luau: Kona Village Resort (its like old Hawaii or Tahiti) on Friday, or try the Outrigger Waikoloa Village (next to the Hilton) on Sunday or Wednesday. Take a sunset cruise from the Hilton or the Outrigger.

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Kauai
Kauai is the garden isle, a green jewel in the crown of the island chain. Only 33 miles long by 25 miles wide, the island is a showcase for some fot he world's most beautiful flora, mountains, and beaches. Kauai is the oldest island with a rich cultural history from the ancient Hawaiians through the missionary and plantation eras. In Kauai one can have adventure and cultural exploration along with the luxury of fine resorts offering exquisite accommodations, regional cuisine, spa services and renowned golf courses.

Viv's Picks: Best resorts on Kauai

+ Hyatt Regency Kauai
+ Princeville Resort
+ Hanalei Bay Resort
+ Sheraton Kauai
+ Waimea Plantation CottagesViv's List: Best things to do on Kauai

(In no particular order)
1. Rent a kayak and put in at the beach where the Wailua River runs to the sea. You can paddle easily up the river through interesting scenes of rural Kauai.
2. Spend a day on Kee Beach. Hike the first part of the famous Kalalau Valley Trail and hang around a waterfall in paradise. Try to catch freshwater shrimp. Be mindful of ghosts of ancient Hawaiians—there are lot’s of them around here.
3. Hike the ridge above the Kalalau Valley. Drive up to Kalalau Valley Overlook and park, and take the easy trail (I think its called Kalalau Valley Trail) that follows the ridge a few miles. You’ll have the magnificent Kalalau Valley on one side and the spooky Alakai Swamp on the other. An amazing hike. Don’t wander off the trail though.
4. Drive to Waimea Canyon. Have a picnic and watch the colors change.
5. Hike Waipo’o Falls and swim in the natural pool at the base of the 800-foot waterfall. Take Koke’e Road (State Hwy 550). Trail head is _ mile past Pu’um Hina Hina Outlook near NASA satellite tracking station on the right.
6. Visit Koke’e Wilderness Forest, a 4345-acre sanctuary where rare and endangered native birds inhabit the Alaka’I rainforest.
7. Visit the old sugar mill town of Waimea and stop at the Waimea Plantation Cottages to buy some tapa cloth and artful things at the gift shop in the old plantation house. Visit a few gallery shops in this artist town. Talk to the guy in the record store about Hawaiian music.
8. Spend a lazy afternoon on a spectacular, little visited beach—Polihale State Park/Barking Sands Beach, past Waimea town. You’ll be looking at the other end of the NaPali coastline from where you were at the end of the road (Kee Beach) at northshore. Be aware that the red mud cane road leading to the beach will become a slippery creekbed in a flash flood—so if it starts to rain hard—get out of there fast or you’ll get stuck.
9. Get some thrills on one of those fast zodiac boat trips along the Na Pali coast. If they will, if the water is calm, get them to race in to a lava tube cave.
10. See if you can find Harrison Ford on Kipuka Kai (accessible only by helicopter, boat or kayak).
11. Check out the Farmers Market in Kapaa—find out what days of the week its there—best place to stock up on mangoes and papaya!
12. Look for Elvis’ ghost at Coco Palms. Has the vegetation reclaimed this old hotel yet? It’s been abandoned since Hurricane Iniki.
13. In Poipu Beach, wander around the strange cacti/succulent gardens at Kiahuna Plantation.
14. Allerton Estate and Gardens. They may not offer tours to this place anymore, but if they do—GO! It’s Queen Emma’s old place—and a dreamy place it is, a hidden valley on a secluded bay. They didn’t let us see the palace home, just toured the old gardens—and this was a few years ago. There were biting bugs however.

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Lanai
A short flight or fast boat ride from Maui, little 18 mile long Lanai is a private island retreat and home to two ultra luxurious destination resorts, the Lodge at Koele and Manele Bay Hotel. Once a company town for Dole Pineapple, now the island attracts golfers, adventurers and those wishing to get off the beaten track. Magical gardens, fantastic snorkeling and unforgettable vistas are some of the things to be found, besides the truly exquisite resorts and world famous ocean view golf courses.
Viv's Picks

+ Lodge at Koele
+ Manele Bay Hotel
+ Hotel Lanai bed and breakfast

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Molokai

Molokai is old Hawaii -- slow paced, quaint and rustic, where most residents are farmers or fishermen and where even in the main town of Kauana Ka Kai there are no traffic lights, and no buildings taller than a coconut tree. Visitors will find intriguing local shops and galleries, and even more intriguing local characters whose favorite pastime is "talking story" which can be a delight for the curious traveler to this unique island.

Yet what draws most visitors to Molokai is the opportunity for outdoor adventure. There is kayaking along miles of pristine barrier reefs, deep sea fishing with expert local captains, horseback riding along gorgeous coastlines, incredible mountain biking, hiking, snorkerling the island's 28-mile reef, cattle drives, surfing, golfing and swimming. A true taste of history is a pilgrimage to beautiful Kalaupapa, Father Damian's settlement, now a National Historical Park.

Viv's Picks: Best place to stay on Molokai
+ Molokai Ranch and Lodge (the perfect blend of luxury and adventure).

Viv's List: Best things to do on Molokai

1. Snorkel the 28-mile reef.
2. Pilgrimage to Kalaupapa.
3. Horseback riding.
4. Deep sea fishing.
5. Talk story with locals.

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